Last week we talked about the importance of ball fitting. The WHY we do it. This week we can chat about the HOW we do it.

Essentially, this is better into a net or Simulator if you have access to one. Simply because we are using real balls and separating them out afterwards can be both difficult and costly.  You’ll need a launch monitor for this. When you set it up, if you can change the ball type, be sure to change it to “PREMIUM” as the performance of the real ball will be different from a range ball. 

You’ll see the biggest differences with a driver, mid iron (we use a 7 iron), wedge and putter. Why only these and not the whole bag? Simple. The different layers on the ball target different areas of launch angle, ball speed and spin rate. With these clubs, you can see how different balls respond to your players swing.  Also, use NEW balls.  Yes, these wear too, and you will see differences on a ball that has a round under it’s belt.

Have him warm up with 5 or 6 shots – yes, that’s it. Most players start to give bad swings after about 30 swings. So, we need the whole test wrapped up pretty quickly. Start with his current gamer ball and his driver. Give him 5 shots and look at his averages for ball speed, spin, launch angle, height, carry distance and total distance. You shouldn’t see any anomalies unless it’s bad contact. Ideally you can get 5 decent to good ones. Repeat this with another ball. Compare the averages. Fiddle with deleting this shot or that one. Try a different ball or balls. Ideally, you’ll find one that’s good for spin rate and it optimizes his carry distance. Repeat the process with the 7 iron – his gamer first, then the ball you found with the driver. If the results are not good with the new ball, try some of the others that were close with the driver. Repeat with the wedge. Then see if he likes the way the new ball feels chipping and putting.

Don’t underestimate that value of having the player chip and putt with the new ball. Some can feel the differences, some can’t.

If you’re not sure what to look for, remember some of the optimal data we chatted about earlier this summer with club fitting:

Say you have a player who is 90mph club head speed with a driver.  We’d look for 135 MPH Ball speed as the ideal (driver club head speed times 1.5).  His optimum spin will be in the 2500 range, and we’d like to see his apex height at right around 90 feet.  His rollout after carry should be about 25 yards.  Often, a player type like this will opt for a Pro V1 or another firm Tour ball.  Unfortunately, he doesn’t swing it hard enough to compress that ball enough to maximize his launch conditions.  He may experience spin that is too low, which produces a flight that is too low, carry that doesn’t go as far as it should, and roll out that goes more than it should.  A softer ball will help ALL of those things.  You earn your weight by knowing what balls are softer and what ball will give him the greenside performance he’s looking for AND the additional carry and stopping power he needs.

This same player with a 7 iron should be about 75 MPH club head speed and right around 100 MPH ball speed (7 iron club head speed times 1.35).  His spin should be in the 5000-6000 RPM range depending on the iron that he’s using.  Apex height still at 90 feet, and rollout of no more than 10 yards.  The firmer ball will have the same problems with the 7 iron as it did with the driver.  A softer ball will help in a similar way as it did with the driver.    

Once you get him dialed in, have him take a few out on the golf course.  That’s the ultimate test.

On our balls, we call them “soft” for a reason.  The Supersoft is about a 30 compression ball (remember when guys were playing the Precept Lady ball?? – that was about a 35 compression ball) – great for driver swing speeds 80 MPH and below, and players up to 90 MPH and on a budget.  ERC soft is about 65 compression – great for driver swing speeds between 80-90 MPH.  Chrome Soft is about 75 – Great for driver swing speeds up to 100 MPH, AND players who are looking for a little more greenside performance than ERC soft can deliver.  Chrome Soft X LS is about 80 – great for driver swing speeds of 100 MPH+, and for guys who want a little less spin with BOTH the driver AND the irons (can’t have one and not the other).  Chrome Soft X is in the upper 80’s – Great for very good ball strikers with a driver club head speed at 100 MPH+.  Pro V1 for example is in the 110-115 range, and Pro V1X is around 120.  Compression matters.  That is what generates ball speed from impact – it’s a combination of face flex and compression.  TOO much compression and too much energy is lost.  TOO little compression and the ball doesn’t get enough energy.  The right amount will maximize ball speed and all other launch conditions.  Once you have compression dialed in, many other things will fall into place as a ball is optimized in design for a player who needs XX amount of compression. 

What I see with most players is that they are playing a ball that is too firm for them.  If a player doesn’t have a ball that performs exactly as he wants it to or expects it to, can not play to his potential.  Any player at any level.  Period.  End of story. I always chuckle at the player who is playing a Taylor Made Ball, hits it in the woods, and the next hole he has a Titleist in play.  What the?

The guy who says he Plays whatever he finds need a slap. Haha. He doesn’t have 2 balls that compress the same, feel the same or perform the same. At least the guy who always plays a ball that’s too firm always gets the same result. Golf is a game of accuracy, precision and decision making.  If he doesn’t want to shoot good scores, let him play what he finds in the creeks and trees…  I always tell people that those balls are in there for a reason.  haha

Last thing.  Your results may vary widely.  When we tested the Current Chrome Soft Ball vs. last years Chrome soft, it was 5 yards longer – with a driver and a 7 iron combined.  This was with a swing robot, so all shots were perfect.  But, meaning on a 400 yard par 4, the new ball went 5 yards further.  Roughly 3.5 yards with the driver and 1.5 with the 7 iron.  Now, the new ball flies significantly straighter.  That is something to look at too.  Is that difference worth making a change? probably not if taken at face value, but if it goes straighter, it certainly is – especially if they are the same price.  On the other side, I will sometimes see 10 yards or more with a driver.  Add in another 5 or 6 yards with the 7 iron, and it makes a difference.  A club and a half shorter on every par 4??  What’s to discuss?  My guess is that you will be somewhere in between those two examples with most players you work with, but you will most likely find more distance and control with almost every player you work with.

Hope this helps. Until next time – happy fitting!!