Seems like we started the wedges discussion about a month ago. Haha. Let’s finish this one up. 2 weeks ago, we talked about HOW wedges are made and WHY they need to be replaced. Today, let’s talk about grinds. The wonderful world of grinds…

Back in the good old days, we didn’t have choices. Not on grinds for sure. Heck, when I was growing up we had a pitching wedge and a sand wedge. One extra wedge. That’s it – they were all the same. Every company, same thing. Tour players had options, though, but they did because they had a guy (like Roger Cleveland) who would be on a tour van and hand grind wedges for each player specific to what they wanted. If a player played a bunker shot a certain way, a specific sole grind would be better for him than others. Same with a lob shot with an open face. Different attack angles, turf conditions, types of sand, types of grasses in the rough etc. all played a part in what grind was best for a player on any given week. Back in those days, a player would get a set of wedges that would work for him for Florida, then he would get another set that worked for Northern grasses and sands when he came up here. He would set aside the Florida wedges until he went back down there. Wedges like that didn’t exist, so someone hand made them for them. Wouldn’t it be cool if we could do that for the masses…

Sure!! Until someone has to learn what all the grinds and bounces are, then figure out how to sell them to each individual player. UGH!! Gone are the days where we had one 56* wedge to choose from, one 60*, one 52*, etc…

Today, grinds are basically categorized by a players attack angle. If he’s steep, there’s one set of grinds for him. If he’s shallow or doesn’t take a big, deep divot, there’s another set of grinds for that player. That’s it.

So, when I start fitting a player for wedges, I ask him to grab his 7 iron. “But I want wedges?” I know, but I need his Attack Angle first. I have him hit a few shots with his 7 iron. If he’s more negative than -5* AoA, AND he takes a big, deep divot, I start exploring higher bounce, larger sole options that will not dig (as much). If he’s -3.5* or less, I look at standard grinds. If he’s in the middle, it depends on his divot pattern and type.

Here is the short version of our wedges. If you don’t remember anything else, remember this:

With our sole grinds, the S Grind and C grind are for the shallow swinger who doesn’t take much of a divot. The W grind, X grind and Z grind are for the steeper swinger who tends to take a deeper divot.  I won’t get into the differences between the grinds. The internet is a wonderful thing. 

If a player is steep, he will probably play some matrix of W, X or Z. Perhaps a 52 W, a 56 X, and a 60 Z. If he’s shallow, it might be 50 S, 54 S, and 58 C. The point is, you probably want to stay within a certain family of grinds for a player once you know how he swings it.

I’m a big fan of changing grinds within a set of wedges. In my book, each wedge has a purpose. Changing the grind will afford the player more flexibility in different lies, turf or sand conditions, etc., than having each wedge have the same sole. For example in the “W” set make up above, I have a low bounce, wide sole 60* wedge, and a high bounce 56* wedge with lots of heel and toe relief. Suppose the player goes to a golf course where the sand is thin and has a hard bottom – that high bounce 56 will give him fits. but the low bounce 60 will be great. Having that option will be great for him. Consider adding different grinds for a player if it makes sense. Talk to him about HOW he uses each wedge and you’ll be able to figure it out together.

Food for thought… I carry a 50 S grind, a 54 S Grind. and a 58 Z. Wait, wait, hold on… “You just said stay in the same family and you didn’t. You also said mix up the grinds and you didn’t. What gives??” This is a classic case of ask the player HOW he uses the wedges and adapt. My 50* wedge is a full swing club for me. I do chip and pitch with it, but I never open or close the face for those types of shots. Having a grind that matches my full swing makes sense. On the 54, that is my 100 yard club, so I hit it full often. It is also my go to around the greens – including in bunkers. I wanted something that matched my full swing, but also had some heel and toe relief for those “special” shots around the greens. The S Grind had enough of that for my taste. On the 58… I look at wedges this way – the 54* is half Gap wedge, half SW. The 58* is half SW, and half LW. So, I wanted another “SW” that would compliment the main SW that I have. 58 is not a club that I hit full. Never ever. It scares me. If it’s hard pan I will, but on soft fairways that will take a divot a foot and a half long. Nope. Not for me. I can dial in the distance with a 54 just fine. I chose a low bounce 58 with a wider sole, but still had generous heel and toe relief. This gives me the flexibility I want around the greens and an additional option out of firm bunkers. I jumped families here to get a sole that doesn’t dig as much. 

When you read the above about me and my wedges, you’ll see that there aren’t any rules that can’t be broken. ASK the player what he wants. Use your understanding of the short game and craft a set that works for each player. It’s fun!! Fitting sets of wedges is my favorite part of fitting. Why? It’s more art that science. No two people get the ball close to the hole from around the greens the same way. There are no rules. If you see it one way and he sees it another and you both hit it to a foot – who’s right? You both are!! Talk to him and give him to tools that will compliment his game the best way. Fitting wedges is an art. Use your knowledge and your imagination. Go paint a picture!! 

I hope this helps!! Happy fitting, happy retaining, and happy selling.